Staedtler 925 35 Baumgraph
On leadholders : a review from an enthusiast
1. Definition
What is a “real” leadholder?
A leadholder (also called a clutch pencil) is a refillable pencil that holds a single, thick, full-length lead — usually 2 mm, sometimes 3 mm, 3.15 mm, or 5.6 mm — between a set of metal jaws (the clutch) at the tip.
The defining mechanism is the drop clutch:
- Press the push-button at the top → the jaws open.
- Gravity (or a tap) lets the lead slide out as far as you want.
- Release the button → the jaws close and lock the lead in place.
Key traits of a “true” leadholder:
- No automatic advance. Each click does not feed a fixed increment of lead — you decide how much lead is exposed.
- One lead at a time, typically ~120–130 mm long.
- Lead must be sharpened, usually with a lead pointer (rotary sharpener), sandpaper, or a sharpener built into the push-button cap.
- The body never gets shorter. Length, weight and balance stay constant as the lead wears down.
Common misunderstandings (that the community generally tolerates)
| What people say | What’s technically going on | Community verdict |
|---|---|---|
| “Leadholder” and “clutch pencil” are different things | They’re synonyms. Some sellers use “clutch pencil” for 5.6 mm and “leadholder” for 2 mm, but it’s a regional/marketing habit, not a real distinction. | ✅ Use either |
| A 2 mm pencil with a ratchet / incremental advance (e.g. Alvin Tech-Matic, Koh-i-Noor 5608-style) is a leadholder | Purists call these “2 mm mechanical pencils”. But they take leadholder leads and are sold and used as leadholders. | ✅ Generally accepted, though purists may grumble |
| A 5.6 mm “Versatil”-type holder is a leadholder | Same drop-clutch principle, just a fatter lead for drawing/shading. | ✅ Accepted |
| A 3 mm Fixpencil isn’t a “real” leadholder because it’s marketed as a writing pencil | It uses a genuine clutch mechanism — it’s a leadholder that happens to be pocket-friendly. | ✅ Accepted |
| A 0.5 mm “drafting pencil” is a leadholder | No. Fine-lead mechanical pencils use a propelling/ratchet mechanism and hold multiple short leads. | ❌ Not a leadholder |
| A screw-type propelling pencil (twist to advance) is a leadholder | Different mechanism family. | ❌ Not a leadholder (though some vintage twist-lock clutch designs blur the line) |
| “Mechanical pencil” as an umbrella term that includes leadholders | Technically true — Wikipedia lists leadholders as a subtype. | ✅ Fine in casual talk |
TL;DR: If it grips a thick lead with jaws and you control how much lead comes out, most of us will call it a leadholder.
2. Purpose: Past and Present
The past — a draftsman’s tool
- Early ancestors: the idea of a holder for a stick of graphite is very old — Conrad Gessner described a lead holder in 1565, with the lead advanced by hand.
- First commercial leadholder: German maker A.W. Faber advertised refillable-lead artists’ pencils for design, architecture and office use in an 1862 catalog.
- The push-button clutch: the Caran d’Ache Fixpencil, designed in 1929 by a Geneva engineer and launched in 1930, is credited as the first leadholder with a patented jaw mechanism. It was reportedly conceived partly as a hedge against wartime shortages of wood-cased pencils.
- The golden age (c. 1930s–1980s): leadholders became the standard tool of architects, engineers and draftsmen. Their popularity grew as reprographics (blueprints, diazo copies) improved, allowing offices to print straight from pencil drawings instead of inking everything. A drafting desk typically had several leadholders — each loaded with a different hardness — plus a lead pointer bolted to the table.
- Decline: from the 1980s–90s, CAD replaced the drawing board, and fine-lead (0.3–0.7 mm) mechanical pencils took over everyday writing.
Nowadays — still alive, in new niches
- Fine art & illustration — graphite drawing, shading, life drawing (5.6 mm leads, charcoal and pastel sticks in jumbo holders).
- Comics & caricature — pencillers and live caricaturists value the soft, dark line and constant weight.
- Architecture & design sketching — concept sketches, urban sketching, colored 2 mm leads.
- Workshop & trades — carpentry and metalwork marking; thick leads don’t snap like 0.5 mm.
- Writing & journaling — pocket models like the Fixpencil are popular everyday writers.
- Collecting — vintage drafting leadholders have become collectibles in their own right, sometimes selling for well over their original price.
- Bonus: 2 mm silverpoint rods fit 2 mm leadholders, so they double as metalpoint holders.
3. Advantages vs. Other Writing Instruments
vs. Wood-cased pencils
| Leadholder | Wood pencil | |
|---|---|---|
| Length/balance over time | Constant | Gets shorter and lighter |
| Sharpening | Lead pointer — quick, very sharp, long taper; no wood shavings | Blade/sharpener; wood + graphite waste |
| Changing grades | Swap lead, or keep one holder per grade (color-code them!) | One pencil per grade |
| Lead strength | Thick 2 mm+ core is very break-resistant | Core can be broken inside the wood by drops |
| Cost over time | Holder is a one-time purchase; leads are cheap | Constant replacement |
| Feel | Metal or plastic | Many people prefer the warmth of wood (wooden-body holders exist) |
vs. Fine-lead mechanical pencils (0.3–0.9 mm)
- Line variety: a 2 mm lead can be sharpened to a needle point or used on its side for broad shading; a 0.5 mm lead gives one width.
- Strength: far less breakage under heavy pressure.
- Control: you choose exactly how much lead is exposed — long for shading, short for precision.
- Simplicity: few moving parts → very durable; many vintage holders still work after 60+ years.
- Trade-off: you need to sharpen, and you can’t advance lead one-handed as easily.
vs. Fountain pens & ballpoints
- Erasable — essential for drafting, sketching and planning.
- Works anywhere: cold, upside-down, on rough or damp paper, wood, cardboard.
- No ink to dry out, leak or feather; no cleaning or maintenance.
- Huge range of grades (from ~6H to 6B+) plus colored leads.
- Trade-off: graphite smudges and fades more than ink; less suited to permanent documents or signatures.
Summary
Leadholders sit in a sweet spot: the feel and versatility of a wood pencil, the refillability of a mechanical pencil, and near-indestructible durability.
4. Famous Users
Documented examples only. Please add more in the comments with a link to the interview, magazine or video where the leadholder is shown or mentioned.
| Person | Field | Leadholder | Where it’s documented |
|---|---|---|---|
| Tom Richmond | Caricaturist, long-time MAD Magazine artist | Caran d’Ache Fixpencil 3 (3 mm) with soft graphite | His own blog Q&A about live caricature tools, with a video demonstration |
| J. Scott Campbell | Comic book artist (Danger Girl, Marvel/DC covers) | Leadholder with Sanford Turquoise H lead | Cited on Wikipedia’s Penciller article from comics trade interviews |
| Dennis Smith | Architect, founder of leadholder.com (the “online drafting pencil museum”) | Uses one daily | Profiled in Architect magazine’s “Object Lesson” feature |
| Generations of architects & draftsmen | Architecture / engineering | Staedtler Mars, Eagle Turquoise, Faber-Castell TK, Koh-i-Noor | Visible in period photos, drafting textbooks and documentaries — e.g. a post-war Italian type-design short film where forum members identified a Fedra leadholder |
⚠️ A note on claims you’ll see online: many blogs state that big-name architects like Le Corbusier or Mies van der Rohe used leadholders. That’s plausible given the era, but we haven’t found primary sources (photos with an identifiable holder, interviews). If you have one, please share it!
5. Notable Makers: Vintage and Current
Vintage / historical (many still found on eBay & at flea markets)
| Maker | Country | Notable models | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| A.W. Faber / A.W. Faber-Castell | Germany | Locktite 9400 (late 1940s), TK series | Credited with the first leadholder catalog (1862); “TK” became a drafting staple |
| Eagle Pencil Co. | USA | Turquoise Prestomatic 3377, Turquoise No. 10 | Classic blue/turquoise aluminium holders, late 1940s–50s |
| Staedtler (J.S. Staedtler) | Germany | Mars No. 1013, Mars 780 (from 1978) | Mars line dominated European drafting offices |
| Koh-i-Noor Hardtmuth | Austria → Czechoslovakia | Versatil 5900 “Toison d’Or” (1970s, exported as “Bohemia Works”) | Metal Versatil range introduced in 1946 |
| Venus Pencil Co. | USA | Venus drafting leadholders (1950s) | |
| Eberhard Faber | USA | Drafting leadholders and leads | |
| Rexel / Ofrex | UK | Rexel No. 54, Ofrex No. 454 | 1960s British push-button clutch pencils |
| Fedra | Czechoslovakia | Oekonom | Common in post-war European offices |
Current production
| Maker | Country | Notable models | Lead size |
|---|---|---|---|
| Staedtler | Germany | Mars Technico 780C — arguably the default modern leadholder | 2 mm |
| Faber-Castell | Germany | TK 9400 (hex barrel, ribbed grip), TK 4600 | 2 mm (+ 3.15 mm on some) |
| Koh-i-Noor | Czech Republic | Versatil 5900, 5201, 5228 (short), 5611 (multi-size), 5340/5353 (5.6 mm), 5608 “Notebook” | 2 mm, 5.6 mm, jumbo |
| Caran d’Ache | Switzerland | Fixpencil (2 mm & 3 mm), aluminium hex body, sharpener in the button | 2 mm, 3 mm |
| Mitsubishi / uni | Japan | Uni Holder MH-500 — leads have a small stopper ring so they don’t fall out | 2 mm |
| Alvin | USA | Tech-Matic, Draft-Matic, Pro-Matic, “Ben” | 2 mm |
| Kaweco | Germany | Sketch Up (brass/aluminium, also works as a dip-nib holder) | 5.6 mm |
| Cretacolor | Austria | Wooden “Ecologic” clutch pencil | 5.6 mm |
| Kita-Boshi | Japan | Wood-bodied 2 mm holder (feels like a wood pencil) | 2 mm |
| Penco (Hightide) | Japan | Prime Timber 2.0 | 2 mm |
| Prismacolor / Sanford Turquoise | USA (made in Japan) | Turquoise 2 mm leadholder | 2 mm |
Don’t forget the lead pointer!
A leadholder is only half the kit. Popular pointers: Staedtler 502, M+R, Koh-i-Noor, uni DPS-600, and the drafting-table classics from Alvin and Eagle. Many holders (Fixpencil, Versatil, Mars Technico) also hide a small sharpener under the push-button.
Sources & Further Reading
- Architect magazine — “Object Lesson: Leadholders” (history, A.W. Faber 1862, Dennis Smith): https://www.architectmagazine.com/design/culture/leadholders_o
- Caran d’Ache — Fixpencil product history: https://www.carandache.com/us/en/mechanical-pencil/black-fixpencil-mechanical-pencil-2-mm-diameter-p-11443.htm
- Wikipedia — Mechanical pencil (clutch pencil section, Gessner 1565): https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mechanical_pencil
- Wikipedia — Penciller (J. Scott Campbell’s tools): https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Penciller
- Tom Richmond — “Sunday Mailbag: Live Caricature Tools?”: https://www.tomrichmond.com/sunday-mailbag-live-caricature-tools/05/04/2020/
- Jackson’s Art Blog — “Why Use a Clutch Pencil?”: https://www.jacksonsart.com/blog/2015/10/02/why-use-a-clutch-pencil/
- Pencil Talk — leadholder reviews and vintage pencil history: https://www.penciltalk.org
- Leadholder.com — The Drafting Pencil Museum (vintage model dates and catalogs) (site is no longer available, but Archive.org has it)
- Henry Petroski — The Pencil: A History of Design and Circumstance (book)
Last updated: November 2026. Spotted an error? Comment below and we’ll fix it.
Why I reach for a mechanical pencil
In the photo: an Andhand with 0.5 mm lead, a Graf von Faber-Castell with 0.7 mm, and a black Staedtler 925 with 2 mm. These three do most of my writing today.
I own pencils and pens I love. A Faber-Castell 9000 and a Staedtler Lumograph, both fine graphite in cedar. A Pilot Vanishing Point, an Asvine V200, a Kaweco Sport, a Diplomat Aero. Each is a pleasure to use. Yet day after day, what’s in my hand is a mechanical pencil.
The first reason is consistency. A wood pencil starts sharp and ends blunt, and the line changes with every page. A mechanical pencil gives the same width from the first stroke to the last. As a dude who sketches sections, dimensions and quick calculations on a daily basis, I want a 0.5 line to stay a 0.5 line.
The second is choice. Each lead size does its own job: the 0.5 mm for small figures and fine detail, the 0.7 mm for everyday notes with a bit more body and fewer broken leads, and the 2 mm leadholder for sketching, bold lines, and shading, sharpened to whatever point the moment needs.
The third is that it’s always ready. No sharpener, no shavings, no cap, no ink drying out between uses. One click and I’m writing.
The fourth is forgiveness. Calculations are drafts until they’re checked, and graphite erases. Ink commits you to your mistakes, a pencil lets thinking stay provisional until it’s right. And graphite works on any paper, in any weather.
My fountain pens are for letters and the joy of the nib. My wood pencils are for slow, deliberate drawing. But for the everyday work of thinking on paper, these mechanical pencils win: precise, patient, and always ready.
Last but not least, taking photos of these mech pencils and having a passionate community to share with is a fun way to relieve stress.
A cheerful set of mechanical pencils for a sunny day
Koh-I-Noor 5216 – Vivid colors
Simple, affordable, vivid colors, with some quirks.. that’s Koh-I-Noor leadholder !
Mechanical pencil section for long writing sessions
I’m a fan of drafting mechanical pencils. However for a long writing session (2-4 hours), standard drafting pencils can eventually chew up my fingers or cause serious hand fatigue. A long writing session requires a totally different balance, grip, and weight distribution than quick drafting work. Here is my recent rotation for marathon writing, with some verdicts and tips
Pentel Smash: legendary EDC icon that blends a draft pencil’s precision with a writer’s comfort.
A non slip grip, lightweight, and forward weight distribution. A nimble and tireless writing tool. For technical notes with lots of plots and illustrations, this is my ultimate choice.
Rotring Newton: the heavy metal choice. Some may dislike the heavy feel, but the weight helps a ton where it doesn’t require much applied pressure. With a good 2B refill for a butter smooth writing glide, I just move the pencil and let its weight draw the lines.
Muji Wood Hexagonal: a bit special choice on this one, I miss the classic pencil sometime, and Muji Wood offers perfectly what I need. Super light + hexagonal barrel renders a good grip with no effort. Also convenient for carrying around.
Faber Castell Ambition: a big grip requires less gripping force, and a good finish quality. The cone tip is dedicated for writing. A bit heavy, but in time needed, I just removed the cap and it’s super nice to write like that with the Ambition.
Tom’s studio: fine balance! Brass grip and aluminum body pairing results in a very low center of gravity. The grip looks beautiful and not slippery at all. It can roll around easily though, not worrying but a companion tray is what I need to prepare (or just place the pencil between the book pages, duh).
All are filled with 2B leads, which is the real MVP I think. And the paper is important too, Midori MD is often my go-to.
There are more criteria to decide pencils for long writing sessions : ergonomic grip, auto advance, lead rotation etc. would love to see other approaches here.
Have fun writing!
Bandai Namco Sun-star Nocfree Metal
“A so-so mechanical pencil with auto-advance feature”. Said the Potato.
Well I’m always curious about pencils equipped with auto lead advance ever since I heard about the KT Dive and Orenz Nero, and even more after I tasted the greatness of the Faber-Castell alphamatic and TK matic. So for the Sun-star Nocfree Metal it’s not an exception. To be fair, there is more than the auto-advance that make this pencil interesting to some : the metal body, the grip design and the Bandai Namco name itself.
It only comes in 0.5mm, and the pipe is not fine enough. For comparison, let’s look at the Pentel Orenz Nero, which actually cares about the relative size between the guiding pipe and the lead itself. On the Nocfree Metal, we see a clunky design. If you maintain a straight posture, you have to squint really hard to see where the lead touches the paper surface. Or, you can try to “feel” it, good luck with that.
The cone is brass, the body is aluminum, and the cap is plastic. The internals and the clutch are also plastic, rendering the center of gravity slightly toward the tip (the yellow dot in the second picture). A hard shell covering an elastic internal gives me the image of a snail. And I hate snails. Just look at that clutch… *sigh*. A plastic clutch is not necessarily a bad design, but when they so focus on metal in their advertisement, I expected more.
The grip is useless; they replaced one slippery thing with another slippery thing. I can barely feel it, and when I try to, I lose the feel of the pencil entirely. The bare aluminum grip is actually better than those parallel plastic lines.
The clip is so-so, like the KT Dive, but less strong. The cap has a small hole through which lead could theoretically slip out since there is no eraser, but I challenge anyone to actually make the leads go out through that hole. I don’t know what the purpose of that hole is; every hole should have a purpose. This one isn’t big enough for child-protection regulations, yet it’s small enough to make me question its existence. If I were being pedantic, I would say the hole is there to reduce pressure inside the tube while the pencil is in use. OH WAIT, it’s also for reloading leads into the pencil without removing the cap.
The writing experience is not bad. The tip is very responsive, and since the pipe is not overly refined but well-chamfered at the edge, the scratchy feel is negligible. Regardless, I write mostly on Midori MD paper, which is normally smooth enough to boost every pencil to a whole new level.
Welp, the “short review” was a lie. Anyway, I think this is not a bad pencil, but it isn’t an exceptional one either. I feel like Sun-Star made this pencil to be given away as a gift for someone buying a Gundam.
Zebra Rint 0.3mm vs Pentel ORENZ PP503 0.3mm
Two sliding-pipe mechanical pencils for people who like to write without being afraid of lead breakage.
Both have plastic barrel, brass clutch. RINT is a bit lighter but not so significant. While many Zebra pencils focus on “unbreakable lead” (like the DelGuard), the Rint was designed with a completely different philosophy: visibility and posture. Zebra marketed this pencil under the idea that if you can’t see what you’re writing, you slouch and ruin your posture
The pipe : This part is what the ORENZ and the RINT are all about. I test on Oxford and MIDORI papers without any problem, my writing style doesn’t produce any scratchy feeling, but it does make noise, but that noise is music to my ears. Interestingly, the sliding pipe on the ORENZ can be removed without any effort. Meanwhile, the RINT’s part refuses to pop out, but its movement is very unidirectionally smooth. On RINT, the pipe has a fixed part and the moving part which render the whole sleeve a bit longer, I like this approach, as it makes even easier to see where the tip is, useful for drawing small details, 4~5mm exposed (a bit overkill, as ORENZ has already been doing this job very well, 3~4mm exposed). RINT features one of the longest pipes in Zebra’s history.
The cone : ORENZ is 100% metal, RINT has metal tip and a plastic part for the rest. This was intentional, the dark resin coating is to reduce reflection, hence helping to concentrate on writing better. Both has plastic barrel curves inward as it meets the metal tip, further clearing the “visual field” around your paper.
The barrel : nothing much to say, ORENZ has many colors, RINT has some variations. Luckily I found my favourite pigment on both, presented in this set of photos. RINT’s barrel has an opaque finish but there is 1cm near the tip it’s made glossy, and the diameter is slightly expanded there, acting as a stopper for slippery hand (it’s not slippery to begin with anyway). ORENZ’s grip is getting smaller toward the tip, but it does have some indents to increase the friction.
The eraser : for those who care, ORENZ’s eraser is much longer and usable, while RINT’s is shorter (and cuter imo), more likely acting as a lead stopper.
The cap : RINT has a hole on its cap. Not a wow factor, but it reminds me of EU requirement which I strongly support.
The clip : ORENZ has its own design and RINT has a very basic design. From my experience, ORENZ’s clip is very easy to rust.
The lead size (in mm) : ORENZ 0.2 0.3 0.5 0.7, RINT 0.3 0.5
Mostly white mechanical pencils
My “> 60% white” setup, to make pencils rotation more fun, or when temporarily tired of black sets and colorful ones
Found a box of old Pentel Sharp
Lost count of how many P20x in my drawer, but there is always space for more of these. Such timeless design.
Although the inside is not its original content (black P205), but it’s even better, a set of For Film Sharp, these were designed to use on semi-transparent film paper which was quite popular to architects and engineers for technical drawing. And some other retractable Pentel Sharp with out-of-product colors.